Install on a boat
Three wires, about ten minutes, on outboards and inboards alike.
Marine electrical faults start fires in places with fuel in them. Pull the negative terminal before you strip anything, and put a fuse in the power lead.
- 1Find switched and constant power at the console
Behind the switch panel there is a constant 12V feed from the battery and a switched feed that only comes alive with the key. A test light or a multimeter identifies both in under a minute.
- 2Red to constant 12V, through a fuse
A 1A or 2A inline fuse as close to the source as practical. The tracker draws very little, so the fuse exists to protect the boat, not the tracker.
- 3Black to ground
The negative bus bar, or any clean bonded ground point. Scrape paint or gelcoat back to bare metal if you are grounding to a fitting.
- 4Yellow to the switched (ignition) feed
This is what lets the dashboard tell "running" from "drifting at anchor", and it is what makes engine-hour reporting real rather than guessed.
- 5Tuck, secure, and seal
Zip-tie the harness to an existing loom, keep the unit label-up, and heat-shrink or seal every joint. Marine damp finds crimps.
- 6Reconnect and confirm
Battery back on, key on, and watch the asset go online in the dashboard. Take the boat 50 metres and confirm the trail draws.
If there is no switched feed
Plenty of small boats have nothing usable to tap. Leave the yellow lead unconnected — we configure those installs to detect ignition from voltage instead: charging voltage rising above the resting level means the engine is running. It is slightly less precise than a real ignition wire and completely serviceable.
Boats are configured with reduced vibration sensitivity, because a hull on a mooring moves all night and you do not want an alert for every swell.