Installation
Install on a vehicle or trailer
Vehicles are the easy case. Trailers need a power decision first.
5 min read
Vehicles
Behind the glovebox or under the dash near the fuse panel, there is constant power, switched power, and ground within reach of each other. Fuse taps make this a genuinely quick job — a constant-side tap for red, an ignition-side tap for yellow, a chassis bolt for black.
Hard-wire beats OBD
An OBD-port dongle is faster to fit and takes ten seconds to remove — including by whoever is stealing the vehicle. Hard-wiring is the point.
Trailers
A trailer usually has no permanent power, so decide which of these you are doing before you start:
- Tap the 7-pin connector’s auxiliary line, so the tracker runs and charges whenever the trailer is hooked up to a tow vehicle.
- Fit a small 12V battery inside the tongue box, with the tracker wired to it. Highest reliability, needs charging on a schedule.
- Both: battery in the box, charged from the 7-pin when connected. This is what most operators end up with.
An unpowered trailer will go quiet
A tracker on a small battery with no charge source will run down over weeks. If your trailer sits for months, put the asset in storage mode.
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